Monday, 7 June 2021

May into June

May has the wonderful thing known as TWO Bank Holiday weekends, plus I took a day off mid-month. That means that this month has had no less than THREE four-day weeks. Two have been used for house "stuff" and the one-with-leave was for a much-needed collapse break. I'm also hoping that this month will be good for my weight loss. I've finally started losing again, and with the current heat (I die over about 20°C) my appetite is going too. Long may that continue!! 

I've also been trying to get a better handle on both my executive dysfunction (ExD) and brain fog. For the latter, I consciously have been cutting out gluten as much as possible. I'm not coeliac in any form that I'm aware of, but I do seem to have some difficulty digesting a lot of bready products. I've been only eating GF bread this month, and I'm definitely feeling more alert. My theory is that because my body isn't using extra spoons digesting something "difficult", it is freeing that up for me to use elsewhere. I've also just been informed by the doctor that I'm Vitamin D Insufficient. That's not as bad as being deficient, but they've still recommended supplementing my intake and getting outside in daylight more. I've only been taking the pills since Saturday, so we shall see what effect they have, if any...

For ExD, I'm using some tips from a few ADHD people. While I don't have an ADHD diagnosis, my ASD symptoms overlap a lot, so I've found it beneficial to take advice from both communities. The main bit of advice I am trying to incorporate is the idea of looking at problems (the example given was forgetting to put rubbish straight into the bin) and then trying to "fix" the issue by forcing yourself to be neurotypical, i.e. trying harder and harder to remember to use the bin. Instead, you look at the problem and find the root cause - in this case, the bin is in a location that's not near where the rubbish is being generated. When you identify the root cause (and not the "because I'm crap" variant of Root Cause), you look for a practical solution to the problem. In the example given, the bin in that room wasn't in a bad place for some tasks, so needed to remain where it was, but the narrator went and bought other bins to be close to each refuse-generating site. This principle is proving really revealing for me - instead of berating myself internally for being crap at achieving things in the "correct" way, I am now trying to force myself to consider new ways around problems. I now have two separate bins in my room - one for paper/card, and another for actual rubbish. This makes it far easier to control the mess I create!

The last part of the above process was one I hope to start working on in June. Under this process, you make a note of areas where your ExD gets in the way across a week (or longer) and then at the end of the period you look at the specific issues and seek solutions to those. The idea is that it can help identify the actual issues that are causing the issue (like "can't find paired socks easily" or "keep falling over X") and then look for a solution to that.

Last thing for May into June, is that my parents are hoping (Plague permitting) to come up and visit for a few days during June. This is going to affect my plans for June accordingly, as I need to have certain parts of the house truly clean by the time Mum arrives!   

Completed in May

  1. Crafting

    This month I've done a lot of planning, and shopping, but less doing. 

    Bought - some wool (for a sarafan), some cotton print (?Regency dress?), some not-silk (for a bonnet covering), and a small amount of cotton to line the wool. I also picked up some trimmings because SALE!
    Made - I've mostly been planning my Sarafan Project*, which has involved figuring out elements of the outfit, and then planning and making pattern shapes.
    Drafted - sarafan
    Pattern pieces - pincushion (to represent the Doll in the Vasilissa story)

  2. Baking

    My baking plans were for the second bank holiday weekend, but that proved to be too nice and sunny to spend in the kitchen! Oops

  3. House stuff

    House stuff has been mostly yet more box clearing runs, and selected deep cleaning.

    1. Bathroom wall tiles steam cleaned
    2. Bathroom floor steam cleaned AND scrubbed
    3. Bathroom window and sill steam cleaned 
    4. Loo window and sill steam cleaned
      Yes, I love my steam cleaner!!
    5. Bought and built a cabinet for underneath the sink, a box to store cleaners in the loo, and a wire basket for bath/shower stuff
    6. Cleared most of the junk off the windowsill and put away in the new cupboard
    7. Found all the various cleaning bottles and put in the box - I apparently own FOUR half-used bottles of Cif...
    8. Cleared the windowsill in our bedroom of crap - this job is one to continue this week, so is only partially a May completion
    9. Put some books on display on my windowsill
      - I'm not sure I'm happy with this, so I want to look into a way to put up some bookshelves in here. The Ginger One isn't confident putting up shelves, so I've either got to find the spoons to do it myself, or find another way to store them. I know what I'd like to do, but I don't know if I can do it. I want to add a single shelf all the way around, going over the top of the door, and above the window. The main negative of that would be finding a way to keep them clean, so mulling this over for a few weeks.
    10. Arranged and put away fabric
      This might seem like a small task, but I apparently have a lot more than I thought! In the process of sorting various boxes, I found some long lengths of red wool (used in the coat I wore at my wedding), tons of scraps of the silk from my wedding dress, and about 1x10m of nice black velvet! I now need to buy mothballs or lavender to ensure they remain in good condition!

  4. Books

    I seem to have unintentionally focused on the same authors this month. I'm also in the middle of listening to the audiobook of FrankKISSStein, but I've not quite finished it so I'll log it for next month. I've also read another chunk of Who Fears Death, but not quite finished it in time for May.

    1. If at First You Don't Succeed, Try, Try Again by Zen Cho
    2. The Angel of Khan el-Khalili by P. Djèli Clark
    3. Head of a Snake, Tail of a Dragon by Zen Cho
    4. A Dead Djinn in Cairo by P. Djèli Clark
No pic tax cos drafting images are rather dull! I'll try to do double pic tax next month, Promise!!

June Plans

Crafting

Challenge inspiration: ~Sumer is icumen in~

*Sings* This month the challenge theme is Summer and Medieval, plus noting Pride in other countries (Official Pride month is not June in the UK, although some of our parades are). I plan to combine Ace Pride colours and Summer themed things.
  1. Victorian / Edwardian walking outfit
  2. Edwardian Hat - sunhat!
  3. Hat decorations - floral probably
  4. Parasol - if I have the budget space to buy a frame and fabric

Other stuff

Baking

  • Finish off bread mix - either bake or dispose of
  • "Christmas" cake
  • Variation on Cupcake Jemma's Healthy-ish breakfast muffins

Books

  • FranKISSStein - bookgroup book for June
  • Who Fears Death - finish
  • The Fifth Season - finish
  • Into the London Fog - finish
  • The House of Aunts - short story
  • The Perseverance of Angela's Past Life - short story
  • Chicken Chicken Bang Bang - short story
  • A Death in the Family - Secret Readers

Draft Plans for 2021 forwards

  1. Hats
    1. Regency
    2. 1890s/Edwardian
  2. Fan-skirt
    1. Wool blend
    2. 100% wool
  3. Stays
    1. Breast cups work - adaptation from D cup to my more copious HH/J cup size
    2. Mock-up
      Because needed for Regency dress mock-up
    3. Buy wooden busk
    4. Final version
  4. Edwardian blouse / shirtwaist
    1. Mock up
    2. Final
  5. 1818 Dress
    1. Petticoat
    2. Mock-up
    3. Final
    4. Decoration
  6. American Duchess cape, but with a hood
  7. 1890s men's three piece suit
  8. 1830s men's three piece suit
  9. 1950s dress(es)
  10. Circle skirt
  11. Princess Charlotte's Russian Dress
  12. Cycling shorts (modern, padded)
  13. Cycling trousers (historical, to accommodate modern PADDED underneath)

* I have a post underway to explain more about my sarafan project, which I shall post "soon".

Saturday, 15 May 2021

2021 Plans Updated and Expanded

 So, I wrote a post earlier this year outlining my original crafting plans for 2021, which was made using the Historybounding Discord channel's prompts. I'm now updating my plan based on the following:

a) Reality - I now have a better grasp on what I am able to realistically complete in a given month

b) Using the British Guild challenges instead

c) Adding non-crafting plans (mostly reading)

So without further ado, here is my updated 2021 Plan

Crafting

Prompts (from this month onwards)

  • Mythology May
  • "Sumer is icumen in"
  • Just do it!
  • Academia and Allure
  • Spooks & Secrets
  • Out to Sea
  • No Buy
  • Winter Woolies

May 

Mythology, Legends, Folktales

I've always planned to make an outfit based on Russian folklore, so I'm still hoping to get at least part of that underway this month. It might turn out to be a much longer project, but I wanted to get a catalyst section completed in May. Currently I am hoping to make a version of a sarafan, based on dress from an unknown museum. I had thought it was in the Государственный исторический музей, as I have a copy of a page showing it in an exhibition held there, but since I can NOT find it anywhere in their collections, I have to assume it was a loan item. I'll share the inspiration image(s) I'm using on another post as I hope to write more on Russian folk costume later this month.

June 

Summer - theme or purpose

I have a vague plan to make an Edwardian or Late Victorian hat, to go with my walking skirt planned outfit. A nicely decorated hat could double as a summer hat. I may also consider a fan and a parasol as useful things for summer...

As Pride is still within the remit of June for the updated challenges, I may colour theme it with the Ace/Aego colours.

Other options I have considered:
1950s swimsuit or other beachwear
Summer pattern circle skirt (because I love circle skirts!) - with a petticoat to match if I make this
Edwardian blouse - nice and cool for summer, but also covered up, because sunburn

July 

Just do It!

I have no specific plans here yet, but honestly there are many aspects of sewing which I've not yet had the confidence to try, so there's lots of opportunities here.. This may be where I finally actually work on the Edwardian blouse! I may also use July to get a nice big chunk of my Regency underthings sorted.

August 

Academia and Allure

Well, I guess August is the time to let my inner librarian become my outer one! My plan for August is primarily to make an Edwardian (stroke Late Victorian) walking skirt from the pattern I bought last summer. I may line it in something fun though, especially if I can find a cute books related fabric print... 

This month may also be the one where I try out the American Duchess cloak pattern.

September 

Spooks and Secrets

I am not ashamed to state that I am a goth and that I love the gothy aesthetic as much now as I did as a student. I've not got any definite ideas here, but vague thoughts include

Bonnet trimming - can get quite autumnal and/or spooky without much difficulty
Cobweb themed circle skirt (and hopefully a top to match)

October 

Out to Sea - Nautical or Regency (thinking of Trafalgar Day)

I'd like to spend October working on a spencer, pelisse or redingote for my Regency 1818 project. The fashions for these sorts of coats were strongly influenced by military fashion. A waistcoat is also part of the borrowing of men's fashions for women, and would be a nice thing to make...

November

No Buy November. 

Whatever I make this month must not cost me anything if at all possible. I am personally choosing to make exceptions for items purchased at charity shops or otherwise second hand, as I feel Not Bought New still aligns with the ethos of No Buy.

I will NOT be applying this to my life in general in November, notably because November into early December has a LOT of family birthdays, plus spreading out buying helps a lot towards making Christmas affordable. In acknowledgement of this aspect, however, I will continue to make a conscious effort to make as many of my Christmas presents as possible. 

December

Winter Woolies

If not done earlier in the year, then both the AD Cape and Pelisse fit here beautifully. I may also focus on the "wool" aspect and try again to learn how to crochet.

I will also be using December to make presents, so that will be the "Winter" aspect...!

Reading

Reading is one of my longest persisting loves, and I have managed to completely lose my mojo over lockdown. I need to get it back! There is some flexibility in this list for adding new books that I buy, borrow, or which are selected for my book group. I hope to pay for the Hugo voting packet again this year, so I'll also be adding those books to the list. Here's my Short and Longer lists for 2021, where Short List is library books, books I've started reading, and a few others. The Longer List is for books I would like to get around to reading this year, and also books I want to read, but which are stored at the other end of the country from me... I also am resolving to ensure that I read at least 50% of my magazine that I have on subscription (because I accept that not every article is going to grab my interest each month). 

In "honour" of writing this, I am going to read at least one short story off my list before I go to sleep tonight! 

Short list

Started and need finishing:

Who Fears Death
The Island of Sodor
Cold Comfort Farm
The Fifth Season
No Longer a Gentleman
Regent's Park [history book]

Library books

Blood of Elves
Children of Blood and Bone
Cursor's Fury
Dreams of Gods and Monsters
Elsewhens
The Hundred Thousand Kingdoms
The Hunt
The Kingdom of Copper
A Peace Divided
Redemption's Blade

Short Stories

The Angel of Khan el-Khalili
Chicken Chicken Bang Bang
The Perseverance of Angela's Past Life
Head of a Snake, Tail of a Dragon
If at First You Don't Succeed, Try, Try Again
The House of Aunts
The Queen's Army (Lunar Chronicles)
Book of Souls (Prof Croft)

Long list (additional possibilities)

Hugo Leftovers

A Memory Called Empire
The City in the Middle of the Night
The Light Brigade
Middlegame

Presents (2020 Birthday and Christmas)

Prudence (re-read)
Imprudence
Competence
Reticence
Strange Brew
Of Wars, and Memories, and Starlight

Finally I have 5 or 6 books which were given to me in return for reviews. I need to do my genuine best to read them (or DNF) and write genuine reviews before the end of 2021. 

Tuesday, 4 May 2021

April into May

May rough craft plan, plus What I Did In April, with another cheat for May Day bank holiday weekend :)

April 

Crafting / Crafting Adjacent

So, firstly I think I mentioned that my Discord group came up with our own monthly challenge calendar, and I'll be switching over to that list from now on. April here was "Alter and Adapt". I went for Prompt 2 and, with the help of my awesome spouse, we completed the work on my room here... We had to wait until the weekend just gone for the last bit - two table legs, but now it's done! In between working on May's challenge, I also need to work on doing a LOT of tidying!!

So the layout is an Ikea hack, made up of one 4x4 Kallax unit against the short wall nearest the door, The desktop is in two parts, with one 2m Linnmon underneath the window and along the majority of that wall, which butts up against a shorter 1m at right angles to it along the short wall opposite the big Kallax. Underneath the desks I have 2 legs on the end nearest the big Kallax, then one 2x2 Kallax slightly off centre along the long desktop, with a 2x4 on it's side along the rest of the back into the corner (and therefore underneath one short end of the 1m desktop. The other end of the short desk is a second 2x2 Kallax unit. We bought some cheap heavy duty clamps, which are currently ensuring the desktops don't move as they're not screwed to the units below at all. We may revisit this decision in the future if it proves to be shaky, but so far it's fine... I'll try to share more pics than the one below once I finish getting things looking pretty ;)

I also spent some time working on the maths and general fiddling to try and adapt the sizing of the paper pattern for the cups part of my 1830s corset pattern. I think I'm there, but I now need to get on with the first fabric mock up. Thankfully the work on my room has turned up a lot of old scrappy fabric, so I can get on with that shortly, I hope!

Not-Crafting

In addition to the room-creation work we've cleared out a LOT of paper and card, mostly dead boxes. I have NO idea where these things came from, but they seem to be breeding. We've made good inroads, but I suspect we've got at least 2 more wheelie bin collections to go...

This month I read The Left-Handed Booksellers of London. I also restarted Who Fears Death, and I'm happy to be back into it. I really enjoyed the former - I've been in a massive reading slump, pretty much since lock-down 1, and this book was fluffy enough to "just read", but still enjoyable.

Other than that, I got my eyes tested, and have finally got new glasses on the way, which is a relief!

Completed

  1. My room!!
  2. A view down my already messy desk!

  3. Box clearance
  4. Left Handed Booksellers of London (Read)
  5. Eye test
  6. Breast cup adaptation

Plans

Plans for May

Craft

Challenge inspiration: Myth May 

I plan to do a short post mid-month talking about the characters below, what their meanings are for me, how I envisage their costumes, and how I plan to make them. Hopefully with some initial progress notes.
  • Vasilissa the Wise
  • Snegurocha
  • Baba Yaga

Plan

  1. Mock-up 1830s corset (no busk, cording, or boning, just size fitting).
  2. Sarafan - draft
  3. Belt for sarafan
  4. Kokoshnik (probably a maiden's one since most female folklore characters are unmarried)
  5. Doll and skull motif elements OR snow and frost

Books

I am probably going to skip my book-group book this month, as it doesn't really catch me AND we're rather drastically short on cash, so I shall skip a month and save that £10...
  1. Who Fears Death - finish off finally. I started this before the Plague was really on the horizon, and it's a bloody good story, so I want to finish it!
  2. Blood of Elves - I'm slowly reading my way through the translations of the Witcher series, and this one is next.
  3. Rev W Audry book on a History of his Sodor

Other stuff

  1. Lentil Chickpea stew -
    I found some lentils that are about to die, and I dropped a can of chickpeas, denting it, so I plan to mock up something using those, some mushrooms, and whatever else turns out to be in the cupboard. Economising and reducing waste in one, which makes me happy. Also my first time planning to use the slow cooker - it's usually his cooking implement... If you hear no more of this, it was shit!  
  2. Christmas Cake for Christmas #2
    I inherited cake baking duties from my great aunt once dementia meant she was struggling. Last Christmas was a complete shitshow (actually an understatement), so no cake was made. My mother has deemed our July meet-up to be a do-over for Christmas, so I need to bring a cake. Cakes in our family need plenty of time to get fed alcohol, which means baking the base cake ASAP. Icing can be done in July!
  3. Move. More. Boxes!
  4. Oh, and we bought a couple of organisation things for the bathroom today in the sales, so I want to get those up and rearrange the bathroom. Boring, but easy win task...

    Draft Plans for 2021 forwards

    Craft

    1. Hats
      1. Regency
      2. 1890s/Edwardian
    2. Fan-skirt
      1. Wool blend
      2. 100% wool
    3. Stays
      1. ✓ Breast cups work - adaptation from D cup to my more copious HH/J cup size
      2. Mock-up
        Because needed for Regency dress mock-up
      3. Buy wooden busk
      4. Final version
    4. Edwardian blouse / shirtwaist
      1. Mock up
      2. Final
    5. 1818 Dress
      1. Petticoat
      2. Mock-up
      3. Final
      4. Decoration
    6. American Duchess cape, but with a hood
    7. 1890s men's three piece suit
    8. 1830s men's three piece suit
    9. 1950s dress(es)
    10. Circle skirt
    11. Princess Charlotte's Russian Dress
    12. Cycling shorts (modern, padded)
    13. Cycling trousers (historical, to accommodate modern underneath)

    Saturday, 17 April 2021

    Working Costumes Images Project

    This post will serve as a direction for Pinterest boards with source images for each decade. I'll be coming back here to edit and add links as I begin each board. I will also try to use this post as a Directory of other posts on this Project.

    Links

    }To be added over time {

    Commentary

    I'm calling this project the Working Costumes Images Project.

    Working - the women I am interesting in researching about, were working women. Some worked in the home, others outside. Some were primarily care-givers and household managers. That is still work! They, however, were not women with vast amounts of leisure time, nor ones who wore multiple outfits per day. Their clothing was practical, often home-made or home-finished, and valued durability and comfort over fashion and image. That said, they weren't dead to fashion, and would have made efforts to at least have the appropriate silhouette, and to not look "dowdy". We can still date ordinary women's photo images by the clothing they're wearing, but perhaps not as precisely as for High Fashionistas, but usually within a year or two. That said, the older a woman got, the less likely she was to care about how up-to-date she was, as happens still today. Why get a new, more fashionable dress, if the old one still fits and looks fine? Waste not, Want not... Using "Working", but not "class", I feel can be used to encompass all these women.

    All this said, I'm not focusing on those at the absolute bottom. I am hoping to focus on women who were able to buy shoes for their children, ensure adequate food, and have non-ragged clothing. They may have held down jobs, but they were mostly focused on the job of the home. Unlike the upper middle classes, however, they were often one step away from disaster, and would probably not have had much, if any, assistance at home. Their husbands (because marriage was a career at this time) would have worked 6-7 days a week, and often long hours. Holidays would have been rare outside of religious festivals, until the mid19thC rise of leisure time. Single women would have worked, and many would have remained at home or lived with a (married) sibling. The workhouse would have been a real threat to them, and a genuine fear. 

    Key words:

    • Practical
    • Durable
    • Worker
    • Domestic
    • Appropriate-to-task (i.e. not a ball dress while washing up in the scullery)
    • Comfortable
    • Economical

    Other points

    Fabrics. Wool, linen, cotton more than silks and other high status fabrics. Cotton only once the prices became affordable. Wool remained desirable for its fire-retardant qualities as women were frequently around open flames.

    Piecing. Piecing is period for almost all classes, but for those at the lower end of the social scale, economy was an essential virtue.

    Colours. High fashion colours may still have been worn by working women if they had access to dyes to over-dye things at home, or if they could purchase a second-hand item in the desired colour.

    Re-use. Buying new shoes or gloves when your old ones were still good were wasteful, and therefore less likely to happen. Buying new gloves for Sunday Best, and gradually rotating them into general use before buying new ones for Sundays, however, wasn't unlikely, especially for middle class women. For those at the bottom, gloves would probably have remained optional outside of the need and desire for warmth. The same for shoes and boots.

    Re-fashioning. Making the same item over to line up with newer fashions was also common among all classes. Whether that was changing a belt, collar, or bonnet to match newer fashions, or setting entirely new sleeves into an older dress to match current fashions.

    Practicality. A dress which had multiple potential uses was far more use to a non-elite woman, than a dress that could only be used in one context. Re-wearability was also essential. 

    Durability. A dress, shoes, bonnet, or gloves that could last multiple years was a good thing. Making over your one winter dress to update it to a new fashion was far more desirable than buying a multiple cheaper but flimsy constructed items that didn't last. An item that could stand up to being adjusted, taken in / out, and having minor changes to update it, was a good item.   

    Economy. While a dress might be made of cheaper types of fabric, or better value options, there was no reason why small parts couldn't be made of more expensive things. Ribbons and trimmings were common on clothing for all women, and a working woman might wear an expensive ribbon belt with her best dress, or have a carefully trimmed bonnet with silk flowers. While she might not have been able to afford a lot of luxuries, than as now, people sort out small things to make themselves smile. Life wasn't all drudgery, and small things could make big differences, in life and in fashion.

    Saturday, 10 April 2021

    New Brain Squirrel!

     So recently I've been thinking a lot more deeply about how I want to approach historical costuming for me. Both in the direction of historically adequate and inspired work for everyday, but also for more intentional costuming, e.g. for events.

    So my first issue is physical. Me. I am not young, I am not princess-beautiful, I am not single, and I am not slim. I am (mostly) OK with myself - I don't mind my age, or my looks, and I'm not getting a divorce; yeah, I need to lose some weight, but even without the extra I will never be slim because my frame is naturally broad and solid. I am from working class and middle class stock, and it shows. And I am good with that. BUT I need to work with that, rather than pretend to be something I am not. 

    To look at this from a historical perspective, in past centuries a woman of my background, marital status and appearance would have been heavily mocked for "aping her betters", or for pretending to be something she wasn't. High fashion is usually, then as now, directed at the young, the rich, and the fashionable. Most of the country just weren't that, and wee unlikely to have seriously desired it. Would living a life of luxury have been nice, of course, but you could daydream while washing the dishes, managing a home, and raising the children, because life as always carries on needing to be lived.

    The upside of this, from my perspective, is that clothing that the average woman would have worn was more likely to be practical and usable in daily life. Ball gowns are pretty, but aren't really practical for wearing on a daily basis. 

    All that said, even lower class women may have owned one or more nice dress. 

    • It may have been a wedding dress, much amended over time, and adjusted to accommodate new necklines or hemlines. 
    • It may have been bought from a clothes reseller - second hand markets have existed for a Very Long Time, and have always been a way in which men and women could potentially access to things otherwise out of their reach. 
    • It may also have been a gift. Gifts of old clothing from employers to servants, particularly in a domestic setting, were not uncommon. These clothes, while no longer high fashion enough for those who were being served, were absolutely acceptable for Sunday Best for those serving them, perhaps with a little adjustment. And if no longer usable as-is, the gifted clothing could happily be made over into something else more suitable to their needs (or indeed sold on via the above mentioned second-hand trade). The giving of clothing and/or fabric as gifts to vassals, to indicate favour, or indeed to curry it, has been used since at least the Elizabethan era, if not earlier[1]

    So what does this mean for me, and what has my Squirrel Brain decided to do?

    For me, it means I want to concentrate more on making clothing that my ancestors would have worn, rather than "Princess Pretty" clothing. That means middle to working class mostly, with a mixture of rural farming society, urban domestic servants and some northern factory mill workers. These were people who were more likely to be illiterate to functionally literate, than readers of magazines. If they did see fashion plates it would not have been because they sought them out, and more like when I look at the houses in Country Life - ultimately not something I ever expect to own anything even close to!

    And as for my squirrel brain? Well that's decided on a new Project, which is superficially simple, but may prove to be Quite Long... Squirrel Brain would like me to find images of at least one working to middle class costume that I like, for each decade of the 19th Century, and possibly early 20th Century too. And then to make them up. Perhaps one working, and one middle class. This isn't to say I can't make the Pretties too - as above, women could still access nice clothes; plus I can make what I like for the fun of it! However, I probably will not count anything like this towards this project. 

    The Plan

    First step in this project will be gathering images. Initially photos to give the impression of a decade, and then picking specific looks to recreate. While I'm doing that, I will probably work on underwear for a while, as that will also be necessary for anything I make outside this little (hah!) project. After that, will be the long process of creating them...

    To be helpful to myself, I'm not going to do this chronologically, but instead let my brain bounce around as it wills it. That has the advantage of while I want to get stuck into more complicated eras to source at the beginning of the 19th Century (i.e. before widespread photography, and when the average person wasn't getting their portrait painted), I can also do easy bits bringing in images I already have from the 1890s-1920s period. 

    I may do years within a given decade for later periods where we have more surviving source material for me to use. Nevertheless, I want to stick to a minimum of one costume per decade, with more being a nice-to-have option.

    I also am seeking to actively avoid uniforms and livery. The stereotypical working-class image of a 19th Century woman is of the domestic servant, but while I am interested in her clothes, what I want to recreate is what she wore when not a work. Basically, going beyond the stereotype of the black dress with the white apron over it. What did she wear on Sunday? What about after she married and left service (if she did)? Those are the outfits I'm seeking to find.

    While I'm happy to look at extant examples of clothing, for this project I want to focus on images from the time. Images show you want was being worn, by whom (status/class), and how. I hope to only use museum examples to pad out the iconographic resources, rather than replace them, although I have no idea how successful that idea will be!

    Is this all I'm going to be doing for the future? Oh no. Definitely not! I have other plans in the pipeline, and idling in the back of my head still, but this is something I want to do gradually over the next few years. In the long run, it may even be able to be a resource that others can use on middle to lower class fashions.

    Citation

    [1] One example would be the donation of a dress (or dresses) by Elizabeth I of England to the wife of a prominent Irish nobleman who she wished to have allied with her.

    Tuesday, 6 April 2021

    April craft plan

     April rough craft plan, plus What I Did In March. I admit to cheating slightly this month. I had my dose#1 of the vaccine, which completely knocked me flat for a while, so I allowed myself to skitter into the Easter weekend. However, life proved to be uninterested in letting me follow my original plans! I was ill, again (this is getting to be a very exasperating theme!), and I have had to face up to the fact that I am just not going to complete March's challenge. 

    I have instead completed a major chunk of the rework of our spare room this month, so instead of feeling down about the March challenge, I am going to feel good about that! 

    Other positive achievement this month is that my main Discord server has agreed to select it's own monthly challenges. I'll probably be following those more from April onwards instead of the ones set out at the beginning of the year.

    April plans

    Completed (spare room)

    • Cleared the floor
    • Moved the bedframe
    • Filled at least a dozen bin bags and 3-4 bags of paper goods for recycling as well.
    • Hoovered the floors and won the fight against cobwebs, and general ick
    • Steam cleaned the windows and sills
    • Removed damp marks from one part of the wall
    • Taken down the old dirty curtains and nets - to be washed tomorrow
    I also completed (with spouse's essential assistance), a first draft of my "boob mould". This is intended to be a rough mould of my breast cup shape, to help with adjusting the cups on my Regency stays

    Carried over

    1. HelloFresh cushions
      Make a cushion out of junk fabric and the ex freezer bags from HF
    2. May challenge
      Order fabric
      Start plotting out the patterns for 2 sarafans
    3. April challenge suggestions
      Breast Cut out skirt pattern for April
      Cut out mock-up shirtwaist for April
      "Breast block" for my 1830s/Regency stays 
    4. Reading
      Left-handed Booksellers of London / Garth Nix
    No pic tax as they photos are on my phone, and I'm not. I plan to share more as a general before/after post once the whole room is done.

    April Plans

    Non-Challenge

    Back Room
    • Wash curtains and nets
    • Measure window for new blind
    • Steam and then scrub other bit of wall that has damp marks from lack of airing
    • Steam clean front of radiator
    • Move remaining boxes
    • More hoovering!
    • Destruct old wardrobe that is not needed in that room - it's not in good enough condition to move out of the room, unfortunately.
    • Build IKEA furniture
    • Move PC and start organising craft stuff into the big Kallax

    Reading 
    • Left-handed Booksellers of London
    • Blood of Elves (Witcher) - need to return to library soon
    Crafting - Boob mould (a second attempt) with better separation. Last try had a mono which is no use for sizing cups!

    Challenge inspiration: Apparel Appreciation OR Adapt and Alter

    1. Fan skirt
    2. Shirtwaist / blouse
    3. Regency bonnet
    4. Regency/1830s stays - wear under modern clothes

      Draft Plans for 2021 forwards

      1. Hats
        1. Regency
        2. 1890s/Edwardian
      2. Fan-skirt
        1. Wool blend
        2. 100% wool
      3. Stays
        1. Breast cups work - adaptation from D cup to my more copious HH/J cup size
        2. Mock-up
          Because needed for Regency dress mock-up
        3. Buy wooden busk
        4. Final version
      4. Edwardian blouse / shirtwaist
        1. Mock up
        2. Final
      5. 1818 Dress
        1. Petticoat
        2. Mock-up
        3. Final
        4. Decoration
      6. American Duchess cape, but with a hood
      7. 1890s men's three piece suit
      8. 1830s men's three piece suit
      9. 1950s dress(es)
      10. Circle skirt
      11. Princess Charlotte's Russian Dress
      12. Cycling shorts (modern, padded)
      13. Cycling trousers (historical, to accommodate modern underneath)

      Monday, 1 March 2021

      March craft plan

      What I Did in February

      Short answer - a lot less than planned! A general lack of spoons, followed by a nasty incident with a cowboy builder which completely stole my remaining ones. I made a last ditch effort to get back on track on Sunday 28th February, and here's where I am

      My original plan was to finish my fox toy that I began on holiday last August, but it's still not quite there yet... So, today I looked at the house and instead "finished" clearing up some boxes with clothes identified as "potentially salvageable".

      I now have a small pile of things that can be donated after a wash. A second pile of tops that need to be tried on as they probably still suit me. A bin liner with stuff that is just not worth saving (e.g. an old fake leather skirt that was literally disintegrating. And finally a pile of fabric and fittings (like zips) that can be repurposed. Plus one skirt that has special memories so I'm not getting rid of it!

      Some photos below to keep up with my plan to "photo tax" each month. Pretty pathetic for this month, but I need to get into a habit, so whatever I completed, is getting photographed regardless!


      March craft plan

      Proposals / suggestions

      Challenge inspiration: Mod it and Mend it March

      1. HelloFresh cushions
        Make a cushion out of junk fabric and the ex freezer bags from HF
      2. May challenge
        Order fabric
        Start plotting out the pattern pieces for sarafan set(s)
      3. April challenge preparation
        Cut out skirt pattern for April
        Cut out mock-up shirtwaist for April

      Draft Plans for 2021 forwards

      1. Sarafan costume / Snegurochka / Vasilissa
        1. Dress
        2. Belt & tassels
        3. Kokoshnik
      2. Hats
        1. Regency
        2. 1890s/Edwardian
      3. Fan-skirt
        1. Wool blend
        2. 100% wool
      4. Stays - Black Snail pattern
        1. Breast cups work - adaptation from an average D cup to my more copious cup size
        2. Mock-up
          Because needed for Regency dress mock-up
        3. Buy wooden busk
        4. Final version
      5. Stays/Corset - à la paresseuse
        1. Rescale pattern
      6. Edwardian blouse / shirtwaist
        1. Mock up
        2. Final
      7. 1818 Dress
        1. Petticoat
        2. Mock-up
        3. Final
        4. Decoration
      8. American Duchess cape, but with a hood
      9. 1890s men's three piece suit
      10. 1830s men's three piece suit
      11. 1950s dress(es)
      12. Circle skirt
      13. Princess Charlotte's Russian Dress
      14. Cycling shorts (modern, padded)
      15. Cycling trousers (historical, to accommodate modern underneath)
      16. Fox toy - finish and stuff.

      Future Events

      2021 is looking to be almost as devoid of events as 2020, for good reasons. That said, I currently have two events that I'm planning for, which should still happen this year, plus a few longer-ahead plans...

      July 2021

      Holiday
      Family wedding

      The holiday is definite unless we get ANOTHER lockdown over that week, and is timed to coincide by location and date with the wedding. If the wedding is unable to go ahead as planned (either by date or by permitted guests) then we'll still have the holiday.

      Autumn

      Jane Austen Festival in Bath - might be 2021, but not sure if it'll happen this year.
      Whitby Goth Weekend - for some lovely fake Victorian posing

      Discord 2022 ideas

      NB these are all just speculative ideas that have been mooted on Discord. Nothing here is even as far as the planning stage!! However, since they're ideas of what people might want to do, they're good things to aim at making something that would be suitable for that sort of event.

      Meet up in Lord of the Rings influenced gear, for fun, maybe Royal Armouries in Leeds
      Seaside themed day/weekend in somewhere like Brighton
      Medieval gear and jousting tournaments
      Photos at a country house

      Other 2022 ideas

      Victorian Fancy Dress Ball with La Rose Soirée

      Saturday, 20 February 2021

      Infertility, Fertility, and Subfertility

       This is a more personal post that I sometimes write, but which will serve for an introduction into a planned short series of posts on this subject.

      NB, while I will try to stick to neutral terms, many of my sources do not, so apologies if I appear to flip between gendered and neutral terminology. 

      Infertility affects men, women, and those who identify as both or neither. Infertility doesn't care if you are married, single; old, young; gay, straight; poly or monogamous; what race, colour, nationality or heritage a person has. It doesn't care about any of those, or anything else. It doesn't discriminate, and neither should we. 

      Definitions

      Fertility

      Fertility is defined as "the quality of being fertile, productiveness", and while it can refer to non gestational matters, such as the imagination, it is usually used to refer to the ability to conceive children or young of any species.

      Infertility

      Infertility is technically the absolute opposite of Fertility, as can be seen by the quotes below:

      "...infertility is defined as not being able to get pregnant (conceive) after one year (or longer) of unprotected sex." ~ CDC, USA
      "a disease of the reproductive system defined by the failure to achieve a clinical pregnancy after 12 months or more of regular unprotected sexual intercourse." ~ World Health Organization
      "Infertility is when a couple cannot get pregnant (conceive) despite having regular unprotected sex." ~ NHS, UK
      "Infertility is the inability of a person, animal or plant to reproduce by natural means." ~ Wikipedia

      According to the WHO, there are three types of Infertility:
      Disability - whereby infertility is caused by external factors, such as maternal sepsis or unsafe abortions. This is thought to predominantly affect developing countries.
      Primary - the inability to carry a pregnancy to a live birth, ever
      Secondary - when a person has had one (or more) live births, but is unable to conceive or to carry to live birth any subsequent pregnancies.

      Subfertility

      Subfertility is an underused term, in my opinion. Its definition is as follows: "Subfertility generally describes any form of reduced fertility with prolonged time of unwanted non-conception." ~ Gnoth et al.

      Subfertility as a definition can be seen to hold a position on the continuum in between the absolutes of Fertility and Infertility. If fertility is the presence of the ability to reproduce, and Infertility the absence of that ability, Subfertility is the state whereby a person who can't reproduce may be helped.

      It is notable, to me, that our local NHS clinic, is known as a subfertility clinic, rather than an infertility clinic. I like this, because for me it implies that their place is to assist people in moving towards Fertility, not in moving them Out of Infertility. 

      I find that I dislike "Infertile" as a diagnosis as it feels fixed, insurmountable, and immutable. If you are infertile, then you have reached an absolute, a state which is unchangeable. Subfertile feels like a medical professional is acknowledging that you need assistance to achieve "Fertility", but that there is the potential to get there. You might need medication, assistive reproductive techniques (IUI, IVF), donor gametes, or a gestational carrier, but you have the potential to achieve "fertility"...

      A Series?

      So, I mentioned I plan to make this a set of posts. I don't plan to write and/or post them in any particular order, or without any other subjects else covered in between, but here is a rough list of my intentions:

      1. How to get pregnant and when to be concerned
        Like many people, my Sex Ed at school focused on NOT being pregnant, and in many ways overemphasised the risks of sexual activities as MIGHT became WILL. This is intended to give a brief balance to that and then to state when you should go talk to a doctor.
      2. Miscarriage - facts and support. 1 in 4 pregnancies don't make it to live birth, but we still don't talk about it. Miscarrying is horrid, but not something to be ashamed of.
      3. Assisted Reproductive Techniques 1 - IUI
      4. Assisted Reproductive Techniques 2 - IVF and related ICSI, IMSI, and IVM
      5. Donor gametes, DNA, and genetics
      6. Gestational Carriers & Surrogacy - you are still the parent
      7. "Bingo!" - why saying "Think Positive" or "Just Adopt" will likely make the hearer want to poke you in the eye
      8. Other ways to make a family
      Needless to say, a lot of this will be UK focused, as that's where the plurality of my information comes from, but I plan to include wider international information where possible.

      The intention behind this loose series is to provide a place to share thoughts and information with friends and relatives dealing with various aspects of this whole shitshow.

      Monday, 15 February 2021

      Monthly craft plan - Overview 2021

        I've decided I'm going to post a simple projects plan at the beginning of each month. Three contingencies though for my mental health:

      1. No guilt - If time slips, it slips, I will not feel guilt for life, health, or finances altering my plans
      2. Plans may change - I can make any changes needed to allow for life, health, and "other stuff"
      3. Nothing is final - To allow for the above, I acknowledge that plans are just that, plans, not final decisions.

      Overall craft plan

      General list
      1. Hats
        1. Regency
        2. 1890s/Edwardian
      2. Fan-skirt
        1. Wool blend
        2. 100% wool
      3. Stays
        1. Breast cups work - adaptation from D cup to my more copious HH/J cup size
        2. Mock-up
          Because needed for Regency dress mock-up
        3. Buy wooden busk
        4. Final version
      4. Edwardian blouse / shirtwaist
        1. Mock up
        2. Final
      5. 1818 Dress
        1. Petticoat
        2. Mock-up
        3. Final
        4. Decoration
      6. American Duchess cape, but with a hood
      7. 1890s men's three piece suit
      8. 1830s men's three piece suit
      9. 1950s dress(es)
      10. Circle skirt
      11. Princess Charlotte's Russian Dress
      12. Cycling shorts (modern, padded)
      13. Cycling trousers (historical, to accommodate modern underneath)

      Saturday, 13 February 2021

      2021 Craft Plans

       While I've completely missed January, and we are now well into February, I thought I'd share my rough plans for the first part of 2021 at least.

      First note is to say that while my 1818 ensemble is still in the works, Plague and lockdowns are putting September 2021 strongly into doubt as a physical meeting for me. I'm now mentally putting it as September 2022 for Plague and Other reasons. It's both sad and good - sad because it would have been fun, and good because I have longer to plan it...

      So, first things first is to say that I am broadly planning to follow the Historybounding Discord's challenge for the next few months.

      1. Finish It February
      2. Mod It and Mend It March
      3. Apparel Appreciation April
      4. Myth May
      5. Pride Month June
      6. Just Use Stash July
      7. Alterations August

      February 

      I will either get my Regency bonnet completed, or finish off a fox toy I started sewing last summer. Probably the latter due to the lack of days in February!

      March

      I have a LOT of things that need mending kicking around, so I'll find something for that! And then make a start on April. 

      An alternative is to act on a Very old plan to convert some of the many Hello Fresh "freezer bags" we got some years back into one or more cushions.

      April 

      I'm not sure here. The guidance is to just mix and match eras, so maybe I may make up my Victorian walking skirt, but pair it with some existing 50s style tops I have.

      May 

      For this, I plan to put into action the research I did for the Foundations Revealed competition, that then had to be shelved due to health reasons. I plan to make a sarafan (and possibly the rest of the outfit) for Vasilissa the Wise and/or Snegurochka.

      This is one month where I will need to start work well in advance of May, due to the need to purchase supplies.

      June 

      I, currently at least, have no idea how to "make it gay". Maybe I'll make something in the Ace colours? I am neither a rainbow nor a pink person, so the traditional Gay or Bi pride flags won't work for me...

      Asexual Pride Flag - Black - Grey - White - Purple
      Source: Wikipedia.

      July 

      I have stash, I can use those! Maybe using some of the buckram stash to make another hat?

      August

      Alterations could be a great thing, especially if we're able to travel by then and I can gather some of my old clothes from my parents...